At 6,812 meters Ama Dablam dominates the Himalayan skyline as you trek in to the Khumbu region of Nepal. The name Ama Dablam means “Mother’s Necklace” as the long ridges on each side of the main peak are said to be like the arms of a mother (Ama) protecting her child. Whilst the hanging glacier is thought of as the Dablam, the traditional double pendant worn by Sherpa women which contains pictures of the gods.
Ama Dablam actually has two peaks, the main peak and a lower peak which is 6,170 metres. It was first climbed in 1961 via the Southwest Ridge by New Zealander’s Mike Gill and Wally Romanes, American Barry Bishop and Mike Ward from the UK and today remains the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions, with the Southwest ridge being the most popular route to the summit. It is usually climbed expedition style, with climbers fixing ropes and ferrying loads to higher camps whilst acclimatising slowly. Normally three camps are set up along the ridge, with camp 3, just below and to the right of the hanging glacier.
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